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Från Solecollector
The Essential Guide to Sneaker Vocabulary
by Nick Engvall
Like many subcultures, the world of sneaker collecting has its own vernacular that may seem like a foreign language to the uninitiated. If you’re new to this world, it can be intimidating. And even if you’ve been around for years, there may be a few terms you’ve never understood and have been embarrassed to ask about. Sole Collector has compiled a glossary to help guide your way through the complex world of sneaker lingo. Read below to get your knowledge up.
Aglet
…..
Usage: Aglets are dope on Yeezys, but using Yeezy aglets on other shoes is whack.
Airs
…..
Usage: ”All I need Rocawear… (check) Nike Airs… (check) Mean bucket… (uh huh)” – Jay-Z
B-Grade
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Usage: You got B-Grade Banned 1s? You weak, son.
Beaters
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Usage: Had to make a bodega run, so I threw on my beaters.?
Bespoke
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Usage: Mayor is the king of Bespoke Air Force 1s.
BHM
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Usage: Celebrate imaginary heritage with the latest BHM collection.
Breds
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Usage: I grabbed a new pair of Breds so I could take corny Instagram pics in my kitchen.
CDP
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Usage: The Jordan CDP releases meant you could get one dope shoe and one whack shoe in the same box.
Colorway
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Usage: LeBron James wore over 50 colorways of the Nike LeBron 12 last year.
DBs
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Usage: Doernbecher releases are out of hand but hey, you got them Js though.
Deadstock
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Usage: I like searching old sneaker stores for deadstock gems.
Deubré
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Usage: If your Air Force 1s don’t come with a deubré they might be fake.
DMP
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Usage: The original DMP Jordan release changed sneaker packs forever.
Factory Lacing
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Usage: These shits ain’t even been worn – still got the factory lacing and everything.
Flames
2.) Fire, or the fire emoji, can also be used for the same purpose.
…..
Usage: Man, those new Ronnie Fiegs is FLAMES.
Frags
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Usage: The resell prices on Frags are bananas.
FSR
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Usage: Got a FSR of Jordans for sale before they come out on Saturday. #teamearly
GR
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Usage: I’m not into hyped shoes, so I wear GRs to show I’m an anti-hypebeast.
Grails
2.) Derived from ”holy grail.” In short, Yeezys.
…..
Usage: 1985 original Air Jordan 1 Royals should be your grails.
Heat
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Usage: I got a closet full of heat.
Highs
2) Sneakers that are designed to rest above your ankles.
…..
Usage: You know a sneakerhead is real if they only wear Jordan 1 Highs.
HOH
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Usage: HOH exclusives used to have cats lined up every week.
HTM
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Usage: If the HTM story were a biblical tale, they’d be the equivalent of turning water into wine.
Hypebeast
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Usage: I’m a hypebeast. You’re a hypebeast. We’re all hypebeasts.
Hyperstrike
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Usage: You know your favorite shop is the shit if they get the super limited hyperstrike drops.
ISS
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Usage: You’re semi-OG if you used to post collection pics on the ISS forums.
Js
…..
Usage: I live at home still but I got them Js, though.
Lace Swap
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Usage: Nothing makes a GR look more like a Kithstrike than a 3M rope lace swap.
Lateral Side
2.) The side of the shoe that is best used for stuntin’ on IG.
…..
Usage: The lateral side of the Air Trainer SC always has a Swoosh.
Lows
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Usage: You can never go wrong with AF1 Lows in the summer.
Medial Side
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Usage: The medial side of an Air Trainer SC doesn’t have a Swoosh.
Mercer/21 Mercer
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Usage: If you are ever visiting NYC, 21 Mercer is a must.
Mids
2.) The least respected of Air Force 1 designs.
…..
Usage: Read Four Pins once and you’ll own a pair of AF1 mids.
Midsoles
2.) Best used to house cushioning like Air, Boost or Hexalite.
…..
Usage: Cracked midsoles kill kittens.
NDC
…..
Usage: It’s sadderday and NDC f*&%ed me again.
NDS
……
Usage: I only wore these to the mall once; they are NDS.
NIB
…..
Usage: I got Yeezys for sale, NIB.
N00B
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Usage: This N00B is trying to school me on sneakers? FOH.
NOS
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Usage: Find yourself an old mom and pop shop with some NOS and you’ll be ISS famous.
NT
2.) The best place on the Internet to get clowned for #NTDenim.
…..
Usage: If your NT membership began in 1999, you’re an OG.
#NTDenim
…..
Usage: I refuse to wear anything but Levi’s 501s, #NTDenim for life.
NWB
…..
Usage: I got Air Kanyes for sale, NWB.
OBO
2) An option that ensures that lowballers will offer next to nothing for anything you are selling.
…..
Usage: Yeezy 750 Boost for sale: $1,000,000 OBO.
OGs
2) DJ Clark Kent and Russ Bengtson (the opposite of n00bs or retros).
…..
Usage: OGs know what it means to have that 25 PSI back on the Air Max 95.
On Ice
2) A term that Instagram foolios take literally and create corny pictures with.
…..
Usage: I grabbed two pairs – one to rock and one to keep on ice.
Player Edition
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Usage: Ray Allen 13s are player editions that released to the public.
Player Exclusive
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Usage: Any MJ player exclusive Jordans are grail status.
PLM
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Usage: If you’re friends with the PLM, you always have a connect.
Quickstrike
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Usage: I miss Quickstrike.
Red Octobers
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Usage: ”Yeezy’s all on your sofa. These the Red Octobers” – Kanye West
Remastered
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Usage: The quality on remastered Jordans means they can charge you more for them.
Reseller
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Usage: ”I hate resellers” – Everyone who didn’t get Saturday’s Jordan release.
Restock
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Usage: We didn’t sell out, so we pretended to restock and tweeted out the same link over again.
Retro
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Usage: Wearing retro shit is old fashioned according to Big Sean.
Sample
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Usage: Sample size is typically 9 or 13 for men.
SB
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Usage: Everyone claims SBs are dead but they keep retroing classics.
Sole
….
Usage: Nothing ruins your soles like wearing your shoes does.
SOLE/SC
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Usage: SC is the GOAT sneaker magazine.
Special Edition
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Usage: The Jordan XX8 SE didn’t have the crazy shroud the regular XX8 had.
Tonal
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Usage: Why say all black when you could say tonal black and sound so much cooler?
TZ
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Usage: TZ releases back in the day used to be crazy difficult to get.
Upper
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Usage: The ZX Flux has almost no limitations on how its upper can be designed.
Uptowns
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Usage: ”In a fresh pair Air Force One sneakers Uptowns, we call em uppies, when they’re on divas.” – Rakim
VNDS
…..
Usage: You know a pair is VNDS when the soles are icy.
White-on-Whites
…..
Usage: White-on-whites are classic summer time kicks.
Från Complex
Aglets
Aglets
Aglets are those little things that are on the end of shoelaces. They used to be made of simple plastic but now, they come in everything from carbon fiber to custom labeled versions to Jesus piece-matching gold on the Nike Air Yeezy II (which, as you may have found out the hard way, tend to unscrew by themselves). We’re sure somebody will be making necklaces out of these things in no time.
Beaters
Beaters
Beaters are those kicks you always choose to wear, even after they’ve been worn over and over again. In fact, at a certain point, you start to love every bit of ”character” that shows in the form of creases, scuffs, stains, and that always lovely stench. Well, maybe not the stench. And without fail, even if you have 1,000 pairs of sneakers, you wind up with a pair of beaters.
Bespoke
Bespoke
In sneaker terms, Bespoke is a one-of-a-kind Air Force 1 designed at Nike’s 21 Mercer location where they offer a unique experience of creating a personalized sneaker using a special assortment of materials and finishes, right down to the stitching and labels. It’s a true ”one of one” sneaker and the experience of creating your own is often on the bucket list of sneakerheads. The term came from suits and shoes, where it simply meant ”made to order,” or ”made to fit.” Definitely not off the rack.
Colorway
Colorway
A sneaker’s colorway is the particular combination of colors applied to a sneaker. It’s also a vastly annoying term, but a necessary evil in this world of ours. Often times, a nickname is associated with the colorway that’s found on the box. For instance, the Oregon, the Black Cements and the True Blues are all different colorways of the Jordan III silhouette. Come on people, can’t we just memorize the color codes?
Deadstock
Deadstock
Deadstock, often shortened to just DS, is a term used to say that a pair of sneakers has never been worn. We’re not exactly sure how it went from ”dead stock” to ”deadstock,” but sometimes you just have to say, ”It’s a sneakerhead thing.” Contrary to what eBay may lead you to believe, a sneaker that has been tried on, let alone ”worn only inside” is NOT deadstock.
Deubré
Deubré
Nike is always on top of adding details to their sneakers. The iconic Air Force 1 features on of the most misnamed details in the sneaker world, the deubré (or dubray). Sure, ”lacetag” works just as well to describe that little label at the base of the shoelaces, but deubré, the name just makes you sound so much cooler. We think it’s French for ”whale’s vagina.”
Flip-Flop
Flip-Flop
It’s OK to change your mind but when you make it a habit to call an upcoming sneaker release wack, only to suddenly decide it’s ”heat” the moment it hits shelves, that’s hypebeast characteristics. That’s that sh*t we don’t like. ”Flip-flop” can also refer to what you wear on line during a rainstorm.
Grails
Grails
A bucket list is a list of things you want to do before you kick the bucket. For sneakerheads, grails are the same, in the sense that they’re the shoes you have to have before you die. Most grails tend to be uber-rare and extremely limited sneakers but for some sneakerheads, it can be that colorway that you can wear everyday and for others it’s that old pair you had as a kid that you wish you would have held onto. Grails are the shoe that complete you… and your sneaker collection. (Not that your collection will ever be ”complete” — stop lying to yourself already.)
High Top
High Top
High-tops, not rooftops-high like Wiz Khalifa, more like thunderous slam dunks and roughing people up in the paint high like David Robinson, Moses Malone and Darryl Dawkins. High-tops back in the day were made to give additional ankle support. They were also actual high-tops, meaning the height of the sneaker was well above the top of the ankle. There are very few true high-tops made today, the Supra TK Society in fact, is the first one that comes to mind and it’s a skate shoe. Sigh. What passes for a ”high” today would have been a low back in the day. Call us lame sneakerheads, but sometimes we miss those days.
Hypebeast
Hypebeast
You know that friend of yours that has to have every new limited release, even if it means selling the pair they just bought last week? The one that buys sneakers based on how many people on Twitter say it’s cool? Yep, we all have them. A Hypebeast consumes hype and reacts accordingly. Never forget, as PM Dawn once said: ”Don’t believe the hype because if you do it might deceive you.” And you thought they were one-hit wonders. And, as someone else once said about hype, ”as an equal can I get this through to you?”
Hyperstrike
Hyperstrike
The Hyperstrike is the most limited of releases, and it generally drops without warning. Basically, if you’re reading this and not in line, camped out and roasting marshmallows right this minute, you are too late. Hyperstrikes are kept under wraps as long as possible and released in extremely limited numbers, sometimes only to friends and family. Tough luck, champ.
Jumpman
Jumpman
Obviously, you should know this but common sense isn’t always common. The now-iconic Jordan logo was the brainchild of Nike’s Peter Moore, silhouetted from a rookie photo shoot, and most famously debuted on the Tinker Hatfield designed Air Jordan III.
Lows
Lows
This one is pretty self explanatory, with the exception of, well, all sorts of things. Lows, or low-tops, are typically cut below the top of the ankle or lower. Or if it’s late in the day and you ain’t been on the court yet, call them a short set. Just like with high tops, back in the day lows were higher — the Charles Barkley worn Air Force 180 was actually the Air Force 180 Low, which it decidedly isn’t.
Mids
Mids
Mids; hated by most, loved by few, worn by all. When it comes to mids, silhouettes like the Dunk and Air Force 1 are an ”acquired taste.” They were also latecomers to the party, created due to popular demand. However, trainers and many basketball shoes fall into the mid-cut category without the label, which somehow makes them better. Many high tops have been retroed AS mids, however, which is simply unacceptable.
NIB
New In (The) Box
NIB
NIB is short for new in box, or new in the box. Period. If a shoe has been taken out of the box, as long as you didn’t try them on and you put them back exactly as they were, they can still qualify. But they’re no longer deadstock, though. Sorry. (”NIB” is also a great Black Sabbath song that we’re pretty sure has nothing to do with sneakers.)
NDC
NDC
NDC
With most conversations nowadays taking place in a 140 characters or less, sneakerheads have opted to be more efficient and the acronym NDC has replaced Nike (dot) com, aka Nike’s online store. It’s a good thing, because Nike.com is so long, we have a hard time remembering it. Also commonly referred to as ”f*cking NDC!,” as in ”f*cking NDC kept crashing when I was trying to cop Yeezys!”
OGs
OGs
Originals. Not a retro, not a re-release, but the first time a shoe released is the only time a sneaker is called OG. It’s like code, for original. Don’t get caught slippin’ and say a retro is an OG because the Twitter sneaker police will ridicule you, because, you know, they have nothing better to do.
On Ice
On Ice
You heard it in Sh*t Sneakerheads Say but all you could imagine was Vanilla Ice rockin’ heat? Having a pair ”on ice” means you have a pair of deadstock kicks that you haven’t worn yet. It’s basically a way of trying to one-up someone and prove your sneakerhead abilities to avoid wearing your shoes or purchase multiple pairs. It’s almost as cool as being on a boat motherf*cker!
Player Edition
Player Edition
A player-edition sneaker is one that is designed for a specific player, and then made available at retail, oftentimes as a quickstrike or limited release. The Ray Allen Air Jordan XIII is a great example of this, Boston Celtics colors, Sugar Ray’s signature on the tongue and released in limited quantities so that some fans get a chane to wear their hero’s shoes.
Player Exclusives
Player Exclusives
Slightly different than ”player edition” but still abbreviated with the same PE acronym, a player-exclusive sneaker is one designed specifically for a player and never intended for retail. Most of the time, these are only available in the size of the player they were designed for. Colorways are unique, details are even better and every so often you’ll see these land on eBay. Be prepared to spend some serious bread, though, there’s usually only a handful of these made in the whole world.
Quickstrike
Quickstrike
The term Quickstrike and the shortened ”QS” version began showing up on boxes in the early 2000s. Back then, it was an unannounced release that hit the stores quickly and was in limited quantities. With the Internet giving us a look at sneaker rumors what seems to be years before they release, now it seems even a QS release gets can end up discounted on outlet shelves. (Or we could just be saying that so we can get our hands on them before you.)
Reseller
Reseller
A reseller is someone who buys sneakers (usually in bulk) with the intent to sell them. Love them or hate them, they’re a part of this sneaker thing and they’re not going away. They make it hard Some of them provide you with a chance to get OG releases that you won’t find anywhere else. Others, they walk out of the local mall carting a full size run of those retros you won’t be able to get, gloating and taking pics for Instagram along the way. Guess which type makes us bitter?
Restock
Restock
A restock is simple, a retailer acquired more of the sneakers that recently sold out. In other words, those retros you just missed out on Friday and picked up for $100 over retail off eBay, yeah, those are now available again for retail. Have you read our 10 Signs You’re A Lame Sneakerhead? Don’t worry, though, it happens to us all at some point.
Retro
Retro
A retro model is a sneaker that came out previously that is released again. Retro sneakers are simultaneously the best and worst thing about sneakers. On the one hand, a retro model (aka bring-back, throwback, re-release) gives most of us the chance to grab a pair of shoes we either couldn’t get before, or we wore so much we gotta have another pair. On the other hand, it’s retros that seem to be the highest in demand on the resale market, making them harder to come by because of the quick buck people think they can make off of them. But we’ll take any retros we can get, really.
Sample
Sample
Generally speaking, this is an early makeup of a shoe that’s made so designers and retailers can see upcoming models. There are different types, of course. ”Looksee” samples are typically in a size 9 and made for the reason above. ”Weartest” samples are made in various sizes (basketball samples are most commonly size 13) to see how a new sneaker performs. And ”player” samples are just another way of sayong ”player exclusives.” Samples occasionally turn up on eBay or at company sample sales (or at Portland consignment shops) and are definitely sought after in some circles.
Size Run
Size Run
A size run of sneakers refers to the amount of sneakers a retailer, or reseller, has. Typically referred to as a full size run, which for guys sizes, most of the time includes sizes 6 through 12. Other variations of the term may include, partial size run, when some sizes are not available and no size run, which is of course when the Hypebeasts and resellers beat you to a release.
Tonal
Tonal
Not to be confused with mythological beliefs as pushed by Wikipedia, to sneakerheads, tonal is a single-color makeup. It’s kind of like, two-tone, but only minus one. Tonal is the cool way of saying a sneaker is all one color.
Upper
Upper
When describing a shoe, the upper is essentially any portion above the outsole and midsole. Upper or uppers, usually consist of materials, colors, straps and sometimes even wings. Sadly, sometimes uppers are hybridized and bastardized into gaudy creations (no, not you, Jeremy — you’re cool by us).
Uptowns
Uptowns
Uptowns, uppies, or classics, nicknames for the most iconic sneaker of all-time, the Nike Air Force 1, are endless. The term ”Uptowns” came from the popularity in uptown NYC hoods like Harlem, where the white-on-white Air Force 1 low will always be a favorite sneaker.
VNDS
VNDS
Short for ”very near dead stock,” this term began popping up on for sale postings throughout sneaker forums many years ago to describe a sneaker’s condition. In recent years, increasing the number of ”very” in your near deadstock kicks for sale has become a trend we can’t condone or understand. We assume if your kicks are VVVVVVVVNDS, you’re clearly trying to hide something. Basically, the way it should work is this: If the shoes have never been touched, they’re DS. If they’ve been tried on, they’re NDS. If they’ve even touched the ground or taken a single step — them shits is used, holmes.
ZigTech
ZigTech
Introduced in 2010, Reebok’s ZigTech has become the cushioning system of choice across their many sub-categories, such as running, training and basketball. While the tag line ”Energy For Your Feet” might not be exactly the way we’d describe it, Zig cushioning gets the job done and has been handling cushioning duties for John Wall through his first seasons in the NBA. ZigTech is just one example of ”Vis Tech,” AKA visible technology, which has been a prime mover for athletic shoes ever since Air broke out of the midsole.
Deadstock – DS – Is one of the most common terms used amongst sneakerheads. It implies that the shoe up for sale is brand new and never worn or tried on.
Very Near Deadstock – VNDS – If a shoe is worn slightly but is close to deadstock condition.
Near Deadstock – NDS – If a shoe is worn consecutively and shows slight wear but can pass as deadstock if cleaned and worked on.
Limited Edition – LE – A shoe that is produced in limited quantities and is only available through a select few retailers.
Player Exclusive – PE- A shoe that was produced under the supervision of a specific athlete and customized with certain colors or patterns that are designed accordingly to the athletes team or country affiliation.
Skateboard – SB – A shoe line dedicated to Skateboarding.
Original – OG – A shoe that was introduced before a retro version was released. This term is best associated with Nike shoes.
Air Max – AM- Nike initially introduced the the Air Max technology in 1987 on the Nike Air Max 1. The shoe is supported by an air cushioning that is placed underneath the foot.
Special Edition – SE – A shoe that celebrates a certain occasion and is released in limited quantities. This term is best associated with Nike shoes.
Reflective Material – 3M – A reflective technology commonly placed on sneakers produced by corporate conglomerate Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company.
ACG – All Conditions Gear – Is a collection produced by Nike focusing on outdoor sports such a mountain climbing, hiking and long distance walks. The ACG collection is best known for incorporating materials that comply with various weather conditions.
Jordan Brand – JB – A shoe line based around Michael Jordan. Shoes part of the line are also associated with the Air Jordan trademark.
No Fly Wire – NFW – Futuristic Nike models have incorporated the special flyer wire material, several pairs that are associated with the material were not produced with it and were categorized by NFW.
HTM – A set of shoes designed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, Tinker Hatfield, and Mark Parker. HTM is the first letter of each designers name.
Cool Gray – CG – CG – Cool Grey, usually used when talking about the Air Jordan 3, 4, 9, or 11
Lifestyle – LS – A special release typically associated with Jordan Brand which ties in matching clothing and sneakers. Generally lifestyle releases are limited.
Defining Moments Package – DMP – A package which consisted of an Air Jordan XI and Air Jordan VI, the release celebrated two pivotal points in Michael Jordans career. The package was limited and is a highly sought after item.
Air Force 1 – AF1 – One of the first trend setting shoes that comes in a traditional white/white colorway and over 3000+ random colorways. The shoe is produced by Nike and is one of the best selling shoes of all time.
Grade School – GS – Shoes produced for infants and children. A term that was invented by Nike.
General Release – GR – A shoe that is made available by most sneaker retailers, it is not a limited model and can be obtained quite easily when released.
Blue Ribbon Sports – BRS – The original footwear company started by Phil Knight. It would eventually lead to the establishment of Nike.
New In Box – NIB – Shoes that are never taken out of original packaging and are offered to consumers using the aforementioned terminology.
Collaboration – X – It is common amongst footwear companies and streetwear brands to collaborate on projects. To symbolize the combination an X would be used between the two company names I.E. adidas x 10 Deep.
Heat – Hard to find shoe models that are no longer available in retail stores.
Holy Grail – A shoe that has both sentimental and monetary value to the owner and supersedes the rest of the shoes in ones collection.
Sample – A shoe that is used for either promotional or wear test purposes.
Prototype – A sample that is never released to the public and is typically used for wear test purposes.
B-Grade – A shoe with flaws that is made available at manufacturer outlet stores.
Beater – A shoe that is worn on a daily basis without care.
Retro – A shoe that is re-released and molded to the specification of the original model.
Quickstrike – A shoe that is released in limited quantities in specialized retail stores.
Hyper strike – A shoe that is released in extremely limited quantities and is not advertised or promoted till the shoe is made available to the public.
Bred – A Jordan shoe with a black and red colorway.
P-Rod – A line of shoes themed behind skateboarder Paul Rodriguez.
Hype – A shoe that receives a lot of attention before the actual release date.
Hypebeast – A person who takes the street wear culture up a notch and wears some of the most expensive and sought after items available.
Har du någon 36 mm Datejust som kan vara till salu?
Hmm… Tror inte jag vill sälja min. Men allt beror på vad du bjuder
16k.
Annars kan du kanske hjälpa mig att hitta en.
Blocket.se / Chrono24.com
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